Essential and optional/recommended hardware and rationale; see the
following checklists for details of how to actually take a panorama:
Essential hardware
- Camera: for example, for µ4/3, Panasonic G90, G9, GH6 (or
later) cameras; check remote cable matches motorised head. The camera
resolution is not critical as with a lower resolution one can just
take more images to stitch.
- Lens: for example, for µ4/3, Panasonic 200mm or 50–200mm
for very high detail (perhaps with TC20 or TC14), also Olympus 75mm,
Sigma 60mm, and Leica 45mm are excellent; for more detail 300mm Tokina
reflex is also good, light, and cost-effective if using focus peaking.
The Lumix 45–175 PowerZoom lens is a particularly suitable zoom
for multi-row panoramas as it is very light and its current zoom
length (mm) is shown on the camera screen as it is adjusted – so
that length is easily entered into the panorama app.
For wider-angle lenses, in most cases hand-held (just a few shots)
is quicker and easier.
- Motorised head (see checklists above).
- Tripod. I usually only partly extend mine for better stability,
using the camera screen tilted.
- Connecting cable (head ↔ Camera):
- For the Benro Polaris: USB-C ↔ USB-C cable (or micro for older
cameras), plus spare. Note that using a tripod-mounted lens a longer
cable is needed than for when the camera is directly mounted on the
Polaris. The USB connection lets the Polaris know when a photo is
complete and transferred and the camera can be moved, which simplifies
setup.
- For the DJI RS3 Mini an RSS (USB-C) cable is required (if not using
Bluetooth); the L1 version is good for Panasonic cameras.
- For other heads, a simple wired cable (2.5mm to L1 2.5mm) will
usually suffice for the Panasonic cameras.
Optional hardware
- Spare battery, memory card(s), and spare lens and body caps.
- Camera → head connecting plate(s), e.g., focus rail or equivalent;
best arrangement will depend on the head, camera, and lens in use.
I mostly use Sirui plates, etc., but there are many options.
- Innorel levelling base (or FLM LB15 or SunwayPhoto DYH-68, or Rollei
Mini Levelling base, etc.).
A levelling base is much more convenient that adjusting tripod legs’
lengths.
If the base does not have a spirit level then circular ones are
inexpensive (50mm or 60mm are very accurate and easier to handle
than small ones).
A levelling base is not needed for a 3-axis head (e.g., the DJI
RS3 mini).
- Leofoto QS-60 or QS-45 QuickLink socket (with plate on head).
This avoids rotating the heavy mount with risk of dropping.
- Folding mat/plastic bag to place bag(s) on (if ground might be
muddy, etc.).
- Compass (if phone compass unreliable).
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edited on 2025-01-24 by mfc.